Dog Training
There's a lot that goes into perfect training of a dog, big or small, and whether you're going it on your own or training in conjunction with a trainer at a pet store or independently, sometimes you just need some tips and tricks. Here are four of the most common problems and things to consider as you train:
1. House Training
If your new puppy hasn't been already, this can be one of the most frustrating things to deal with at the very out set, but it's a necessary evil. There are a multitude of products out there to help you out, like potty pads, no pee spray, pee-be-gone sprays, etc., and there are a multitude of theories, articles and readings to keep you up all night trying to sift through.
I have to say, I'm not a fan of the potty pads because they tend to be a mixed message to your puppy. He can go inside when there's fabric down... not the kind of message I want to send! And as for the other things, hopefully with a successful potty training, you won't need these either! Below is a method outlined from a website a trainer recommended:
- Make sure that initially you have the time and ability to monitor your puppy closely so that you can prevent accidents before they happen. (puppies usually have to use the restroom 20-30 minutes after eating or drinking, so the rule of thumb is watch the clock!)
- Have a solid crate with just enough space for you puppy to walk in, turn around and lay down comfortably, and do not allow your puppy to have free reign of the house--ensure you're constantly close by! Any bigger and you run the risk that they will potty in a corner, and if you allow them to have free reign you may stumble upon accidents hours later.
- Puppies can only hold it the number of hours that is equivalent to the number of months they are old (i.e. 2 months = 2 hours), so every 45-60 minutes walk with them outside whether or not they go, they will get into the routine and begin to comprehend.
- At night-time this means that if you feed and water them (or leave this in their crate) around them your puppy will be miserable and whine. To avoid this, use the rule of thumb in the first bullet point, and don't feed or water close to bed time. This is when your crate will play a big role.
- As soon as you see the potty face, urge your puppy (pick him/her up and take them outside and stand with them until they go) to take care of their call of nature outside and with praise and treats reinforce this good behavior. Dogs are creatures of habit and will learn by repitition.
- If a mistake happens, don't punish! Find out where YOU went wrong instead because your puppy will not remember they had an accident even if you shove their nose in it.
2. Crate Training
Contrary to popular belief, not only is this crucial to house-breaking, separation anxiety, chew training and pretty much everything else, but while the crate looks like a cruel prison, a crate becomes synonomous with a dogs' personal, safe space. It's a safe and snuggly place if they have anxiety, if there's some kind of change that freaks them out, or just if they want to take a nap. You can hide a bed, toys, bowls, etc. in their space and really deck it out, and this also keeps the clutter off your floor, helps them only chew on things that they should, and keeps them out of dangerous things.
- Introducing the puppy to the crate is the first bump in the road. It can be scary, intimidating and weird, and that's not the impression you want them to shape about their crate. Take the puppy into the room with you, with the door wide open and praise his/her curiousity with the crate.
- Put some tasty tasty treats, their favorite toys or beds inside and allow your puppy to explore. Don't force them into it, don't push or prod, and make the crate attractive and fun. Feed meals inside with the door open, leave toys inside, etc.
- The first couple times you close the door, feed him/her treats through the bar and only leave him/her inside for a very short duration. Gradually increase until it's not a problem no matter how long you leave.
*A crate is a wonderful way to confine your puppy or dog if the situation requires it, but the rule of thumb is never to leave your puppy in for 4-5 hours at a time. Remember, dogs need exercise, play and potty time.
3. Chewing
This can be annoying and dangerous, so nipping this as quickly as possible (especially during teething which occurs between 4-8 months of age) is crucial. No one wants to come home to a puppy who has chewed through a couch cusion or, god forbid, wires! The reason why dogs chew are numerous, so figuring out exactly why yours is chewing (anxiety, loneliness, boredom, etc.) and what their chew habits are is an important part of this process
- After distinguishing your puppy's habits, take away the temptations. If they like to chew on remotes, make sure those remotes are up high where they can't see or reach them, and ensure that another perfectly acceptable chew toy is available. Fing out what tastes, textures, and temperatures work for your dog and rotate toys so that they're constantly "new" based on when your dog loses interest. This way you're not blowing money on hundreds of toys too!
- Keep your dog relatively confined if you can't puppy proof everything. An extra room full of toys and the things that they need (food, water, etc.) can be a good way to accomplish this.
- Whether through toys or activity, keep your dog worn out as much as possible! This will prevent boredome chewing.
- Coat things that your dog continues to destructively chew (couch legs, chairs, etc.) with a foul tasting substance like apple cider vinegar, or every time you catch them in the act. Give them a firm "No!" and redirect their attention to an acceptable chew toy. Don't punish if you didn't witness, though. Your puppy will not remember their destruction.
4. Barking
This is purely annoying and can keep you from getting a good night's sleep (or your neighbors), and how you approach this topic can be affeted by your dog's particular habits. Rather than electric collars or muzzles (ouch!), some pointers for addressing excessive barking are below:
This is purely annoying and can keep you from getting a good night's sleep (or your neighbors), and how you approach this topic can be affeted by your dog's particular habits. Rather than electric collars or muzzles (ouch!), some pointers for addressing excessive barking are below:
- Don't reward your dog in any way for barking excessively. This include yelling, comforting, giving treats, or letting them in or out of their kennel. Counter-intuitively, this attention is exactly what your dog is seeking, regardless of whether it's "good" or "bad".
- Establish that you are dominant, so that your dog will look to you for behavioral guidance. If the phone rings, and you don't jump up and answer it, your dog will probably eventually get the picture that the phone ringing is just not a big deal. Same for any other stimuli.
- Reinforce good behavior (quiet and calm) and discourage bad behavior (barking) by rewarding your dog when, in the face of stimuli he is quiet and calm, and discourage with a water spray or a tin can full or pennies when he barks excessively. Reptition, consistency and patience are key here.
Reference Websites for more detail and other tips:
*Petsmart has an awesome, comprehensive clicker training program for the basics and for tricks. The trainers are very knowledgable on how to deal with dog situations no matter what they might be, or they will recommend you to someone who is!
Cat Training
Obivously cat training is a little bit different than dog training, but there are some common problems that affect cats and their owners as well. Here are four of the most common issues and ways to deal with them as you train your new family member (as applies to an indoor cat).
1. Litter Box Training
Cats can be messy, and with an indoor cat, you can't really train them to use the restroom outside as you would a dog (although some people probably have... they've trained them to use toilets). For the rest of us, the litter box is the typical method (and typically kittens from agencies and shelters are already trained for this), so if you're having some problems, here are some potential solutions:
Cats can be messy, and with an indoor cat, you can't really train them to use the restroom outside as you would a dog (although some people probably have... they've trained them to use toilets). For the rest of us, the litter box is the typical method (and typically kittens from agencies and shelters are already trained for this), so if you're having some problems, here are some potential solutions:
- If you have a kitten under 3-4 weeks old, this may not apply. Kittens need to LEARN to empty their bowels, which is usually stimulated by the mother cat. To do this, wipe a soft, damp cloth along your kitten's genital area until they empty every hour or so. If they don't go, try again in 20 minutes, and don't be too rough!
- Figure out your cat or kitten's preference for litter (type, smell, size) and make sure that matches what you want to clean up. Also, try to deduce whether he/she likes a covered pail or an open one, and place that box in a cool, quiet area out of the main traffic areas of your houme. For a multi-floor home, you may need multiple, especially if there's a risk a door might be closed cutting off your cat's litter box access. Remember: If your cat doesn't like it, he/she won't use it!
- Fill the pail to about 2-3 in. depth with your chosen litter so your kitten has room to dig, but won't be sinking into the mess. This also makes it easier for cleaning (which should be done every 1-2 days depending on the number of cats). We get to flush our toilets, kittens rely on us.
- If you have another cat or a mother cat, place some of their urine into the box. Using the litter box is a learned habit, and it's easier if another cat can guide the way. If you don't, you become the teacher. When you see the potty stance, quickly move the kitten into the litter box. Once relieved, make sure he/she watches you bury the waste so that he/she learns good litterbox behavior.
2. Scratching/Biting
It's no fun for anyone when your cuddly feline breaks out the sharp claws and teeth, and it can be particulary dangerous if they break the skin and leave any kind of bacteria behind. While small, kittens usually use it to play and assert dominance, but if these behaviors are reinforced, this could lead to some huge issues when they're all grown up.
It's no fun for anyone when your cuddly feline breaks out the sharp claws and teeth, and it can be particulary dangerous if they break the skin and leave any kind of bacteria behind. While small, kittens usually use it to play and assert dominance, but if these behaviors are reinforced, this could lead to some huge issues when they're all grown up.
- Know what your cat's triggers are. For some, it's as simple as not petting them adequately enough or over-stimulation from toys are other objects, for others it can be loud noises or unexpected movements. Watch for ears pinned against the head, growls and dilated pupils because these are common "get away from me" signs. Either way, avoiding these behaviors and using positive reinforcement for "good" behavior is the best way to kitty's heart.
- Don't hit or yell at your cat. This will only frighten him/her more and cause a vicious cycle. You want to make all interactions with humans as pleasant as possible for your kitten. If he/she is acting up, simply place them away from you and don't initiate any contact. Having said that, after you've shown that you don't want to play anymore, don't immediately cuddle up to kitty. Doing that will only make your kitten associate biting with love from you.
- Give your kitten something else like a toy to bite and scratch at instead of you.
- The spray bottle method works too. Simply give a short spray on your kitten's rear end or back (NOT the face) and say "No." every time he/she scratches or bites.
3. Getting into Things/Being in Places Don't Belong
This can be both obnoxious and dangerous, and because cats aren't as easy to corral as dogs, this can also be harder to fix. However, if you have that prize table or lamp and kitty comes perilously close to it, the spray bottle or tin can method works wonders.
- Every time your cat or kitten gets into something or does something you would prefer him not to do (i.e. climbing the christmas tree), simply spray him in the rear or on the back with a short burst of water. Don't drench him or get him in the face, just enough to make your point clear. If possible, make sure he/she doesn't see you do this or they will begin to associate that they can do it when you're not there, but they can't when you are.
- Alternatively, you can shake a can of pennies in the same instances.
- Redirecting your pet's attention can work wonders as well. Simply take him from where he isn't supposed to be and put him somewhere else with a toy or something else to hold his/her attention.
4. Feeding Time
Cats are very much creatures of habit, so forming them often and early is the best way to ascertain good results as they mature. Feeding is one of the most important things because obesity in cats can cause arthritis, back problems and other complications as they age that are better off avoiding. For that reason, I recommend NOT getting an automatic feeder and having food available at all times. Instead:
- Get a bowl that your pet likes and that is big enough for feeding twice or three times a day. I like dishwasher safe ones just in case my boys make a mess.
- Figure out what your kitten's feeding requirements are. When they're young, oftentimes they are a lot higher, and a good way to find this out is to ask a vet or look on the bag of food that you're feeding (see New Kitten Checklist for recommendations).
- Get yourself into a routine where you always feed in the same place, at the same time and in the same amount. Your kitten will quickly become accustomed to this routine. This is also helpful if you have two cats. Either stagger the timing or change the location.
- Ensure plenty of fresh, cool water is available at all times during the day.
Reference Websites for further detail:
No comments:
Post a Comment