New Kitten Checklist

1. Kitten Food
2. Toys
3. Litter Box/Scoop/Mat
4. Litter
5. Carrier
6. Bowls/Feeder
7. Grooming Supplies

* Optional *

Bed/Cat Furniture, Cat Treats, Harnish/Leash, Catnip, Kitten Supplements, Dental Supplies, Home Cleaning

This is a very basic list, see below for a more detailed explanation:

Kitten:
-Kitten Food: Kittens, as opposed to adult cats, have staggering caloric needs. A great food will ensure that your kitten is happy and healthy, at a healthy weight, and is getting well-balanced nutrition. A tricky thing about cats, though, is that they can be more finicky than dogs and they are more often that not, grazers making it harder to keep them to a strict twice or three times a day regiment, particularly with multiple cats. Some important considerations are:

Kittens need good protein, and they need to be interested in their food or they simply won't eat. A trick that I've found works well with picky eaters, rather than to splurge on different types of kibble that could cause stomach upset, is to mix a couple teaspoons of wet food with kibble so that it turns into a hot mess. I vary the flavor and consistency of the wet food to create an interesting meal, but I'm no longer concerned that my kittens are not eating a balanced diet. My kittens love their mash-up of Blue Buffalo Longevity and Purina One/Friskies cans. Their coats are beautifully shiny because I tend to stick to the fish-based formulas and flavors, they never have hairballs or throw up, rarely shed, they are at a healthy weight, and they are two of the most playful kittens I have ever seen.

My trick for making sure that they eat what's in their bowls and don't overeat is to feed them 1/4 cup of their kibble mash-up three times a day (when I have my meals) in seperate rooms. What they don't eat is kept covered in the fridge until the next mealtime (or until I throw it out at 2-3 days). This seems to work well to keep their weight under control and their nutrition balanced. The wet food also ensures that they are getting more liquid, which is crucial for cats to prevent urinary tract and kidney infectrions further on down the road ((Blue Buffalo also includes cranberries in their foods, which helps). Fresh, cool water must ALWAYS be available to cats and kittens.

-Toys: A bored kitten will inevitably eat, chew or scratch. Having a variety of toys that make noise or feed into their hunt and stimulation instincts is very important. One "toy" is to introduce another cat so that the two can play while you're away, but if that's not an option, toys that rattle, produce light, crinkle, are easy to bat around, move, or have feathers. Some of my kittens favorites include small mice that are filled with rice, a lazer light toy, balls with jingle bells inside and bunches of feathers. However, kittens can pretty much entertain themselves with anything: cardboard boxes, little balls of yarn, etc. Make sure that they are supervised if there is a small part of the toy that could be chewed off or there is worry that the kitten could swallow the toy.

-Litter Box/Scoop/Mat: Make sure that the lip of the litter box is small enough for your kitten to crawl into, but high enough or surrounded by plastic so that when they kick, litter is not thrown all over the floors. Covered litterboxes can combat this problem, but some cats prefer an open litterbox. They should always be placed in a fairly private, quiet place. There are many options at local pet stores, but other affordable options for multiple cats are concrete mixing tubs that come in various sizes at the hardware store or plastic/cardboard boxes. Also, a rule of thumb is that you should have one more litter box than you do cats in various locations throughout the house, just in case a cat or kitten should get trapped some where for a few hours or one of your cats of kittens decides that they do not want to share a litterbox.

Automatic litterboxes are an option if you don't wish to scoop, but can get expensive and can scare a cat or kitten away from use. Research and trial and error are necessary to find the perfect automatic litterbox for your home and lifestyle.

Fill the litter box initially with 3-4 inches of litter. You will need a scoop to scoop it every 2-3 days for 1 or 2 cats, more often depending on the litter, clumpability, odor control, and your cats preferences. Cats and kittens will not go in a box that is too dirty, and they will not hesitate to go elsewhere if there are no other options. Once litter has reached a point at or below 2 inches, or there are many small particles, it should be dumped. This usually occurs every 2-4 weeks.

-Litter: This can either be very important or not important at all depending on your litterbox location and how many cats you have. For multiple cats, odor control is going to be crucial, especially if its in a public place such as a bathroom or laundry room, however they do have odor control booster through Arm and Hammer and Nature's Miracle that is pretty effective. The material that the litter is made of can effect the smell, as well. For those with clay allergies, a clay-based litter with the artificial perfumes will kick up a lot of dust that could cause problems, and there are litters made of walnut shells, wheat, pine, corn, and other materials that each have a unique scent. I have only tried walnut and clay-based, and I have had great success with both. The walnut does not track, does not kick up dust, and has a very nice, natural smell. This aspect depends on your preferences and your cats preference for smell and texture.

The next thing to consider is whether you want to be able to scoop the litter or not. There is pellet litter that absorbs the waste, but it must be thrown out each week, and it has a different texture than the sand. There is also non-scoopable sand that must also be thrown out each week. The benefit to these is that the pellets can be a tad softer than the sand, it will not stick to your cat or kittens paws, and it absorbs the waste so you don't have to scoop each week. Scooping is more cost effective and less wasteful, but it does require remembering to scoop and actually scooping. I, however prefer scoopable litter with two kittens, and I like Fresh Step and Blue Buffalo Natural Walnut Litte..

-Carrier: You will need to have a carrier to bring your kitten home, but also to take them to and from the vet or anywhere else in the car. Kittens are usually not comfortable in the car, and allowing them to roam will cause them undue stress as the road flies by. In a carrier they can curl up and sleep rather than wandering the car. Most pet stores have cardboard carriers, but these are not very durable and are not plane or travel approved. You will need a plastic carrier with a water and food bowl that snaps onto the grate or somewhere inside the crate in order to travel, but this is not necessary in the car. On a car ride, only water is necessary.

For sizing, it is easier to first look at weight requirements, bring the crate home, set it up (Be sure to follow directions so that it is sturdy and will not break!), and try it with your cat or kitten. A top-door open is usually easier for loading and unloading, but is not important. For multiple cats, I recommend a large (probably dog) carrier that they both can comfortably lay in, or two seperate carriers. I have two seperate carriers for my kittens, and I frequently spray the soft carrier insert (you can buy one, some come with the carrier, or use towel or blanket scraps) with a calming spray you can purchase at a local pet store (Nature's Miracle or Calm-Quil). It helps keep my kittens from becoming anxious or stressed (panting, roving eyes, twitching, or abnormal fatigue).

-Bowls/Feeder: Making the decision between an automatic feeder and bowls that must be filled twice or three times depends on your habits and your kittens ability to self-regulate. If you are going on vacation and can't find a cat-sitter or are worried that you may forget to feed your kittens for one reason or another, then an automatic feeder may be for you. However, you run the risk of allowing your kitten to gain excessive weight, which can cause joint and disgestive problems, or not eating enough without you noticing. Filling bowls is essential if you're mixing wet and dry foods, and if your kitten is becoming overweight. The easiest thing is to have the bowls in the kitchen or near your bed, so that you can fill them as you're getting ready in the morning and for bed at night. Don't worry, your kittens will remind you when they're hungry!

An automatic waterer or fountain, however, is probably better than a bowl. For one, it won't be easy to tip, you won't have to fill it all the time (it's harder to tell when kittens are thirsty), and kittens and cats need a lot more water than you think. My kittens are just as picky about their water. It must be cool and fresh, usually with a few ice cubes. I have a 1 gallon waterer, and they typically finish it within a day, full of ice and water.

-Grooming Supplies (Brush, Wipes, Nail Trimmer/Caps): Grooming for cats and kittens over 5-6 weeks old is not critical because cats are marvelous creatures and take care of their own grooming. Any additional grooming is typically cosmetic and to prevent damage or messes within the home. Excessive shedding, for instance, can cause problems for allergies, carpet cleanliness, and hairballs. A good way to remedy this problem is to take a comb or fine-toothed brush over their coats (whether long-haired or short-haired) to pull out loose hair. There is also a Furminator for cats, but, as stated before, this option can be expensive. Some cats and kittens will also let your run a vacuum over their fur if they are brought up used to the noise and feeling. Wipes can do a similar thing with the added benefit of removing debris, mud, or anything else your cat or kitten may get into.

The second most common worry is your cat or kitten's claws scratching furniture, carpets or doorframes. Some people go ahead and have their kittens declawed at 4-6 months of age, which is a viable option, but requires research as it's an important decision (it's amputation of part of your car or kitten's paw) and is rather expensive. I highly reccomend looking for a trusted vet that will do a laser declaw. It's easier on the cat or kitten and heals much faster and cleaner. You can also attack this issue similarly to how you would a dog--trimming the nails with clippers, and massaging a kittens feet while they are growing will help you get them used to having their nails clipped. Another option that can get expensive, but is more accessible than a declaw and takes care of covering the entire claw is capping the nails with plastic covers. Depending on the brand, you can get these in sets of 2 or 4, and the packages say they can last 2-4 weeks per set. They are a colorful way to protect your furniture and bling out your kitten without causing harm. However, the one thing that worries me about these nail caps is the size. They are definitely small enough to be swallowed if they come off!

A few other things to think about: If your kitten is long-haired, you may have to trim around its bottom in case waste gets caught in the fur, and kittens can also be predisposed to ear infections or ear mites. In this case, you can either go the vet if it's very gunky, or you can use an ear cleaner similarly to how you would for a dog. You fill the ear canal with cleaner, rub the base of the ear for 60-90 seconds, allow your kitten to shake their ears to dislodge any debris, and then mop up the gunk with cotton balls. Do NOT use Q-tips with your kittens because it can push gunk farther down into the ear canal. It's usually cleaner to do this process outside or in an area that is easy to clean because gunk and cleaner will be spread around as your kitten shakes his/her head. You can clean your kittens ears every 2-3 days.


**Optional**
-Bed/Cat Furniture: Some kittens love the ability to escape from the world and climb high above you. In this instance, I would highly recommend a cat tower or a window perch, however, this furniture can be expensive. You can make a window perch using plywood and soft fleece pretty easily (tutorials online), or decide to go without. Cats will quickly find their own hiding spots and be just as happy with out without cat funiture. If you do buy or make cat furniture, ensure that it's sturdy enough to not be a risk to your house or kitten.

-Harness/Leash: This can be an easy way to take your kitten for walks (exercise), take them to the pet store or secure them in the car without a carrier. However, kittens don't need to be walked, generally feel safer in a carrier when at the pet store or in the car, and are a little harder to get used to the leash. I would like to get my kitten a harness and leash simply to allow him outside without worrying that he will get lose and harmed, but I have yet to make the leap because I'm worried he will get too comfortable outside. For the harness, they do have cat harnesses, or you can purchase a small dog harness and size them down. The leash is the same.

If you have an outdoor cat, I HIGHLY reccomend a collar with your address, phone number, and its microchip ID if the kitten is microchipped. This will ensure that if your cat or kitten is found, he/she can be returned to you. However, I'm not a fan of the break-away collars. They tend to come off too easily (I do understand the idea, though), and would be pretty useless for their purpose. My recommendation would be a dog collar that is sized down. Poking holes in the fabric is easy and effective.

-Cat Treats: Cats are typically not as driven by food and treats for behavior and some cats or kittens don't like treats, but having small bits of something on special occasions is a nice way to spoil your cat or kitten. For my kittens, I use string cheese bits, frozen yogurt circles (see The Cookie Jar for recipes) or frozen scoops of wet food (see The Cookie Jar for a tutorial). My one kitten is not a fan of the hard or soft treats, and the other is a huge fan of any treats, but they both like to be spoiled with what they consider "human food." A little bit of milk in a dish can also work, but be careful after your kittens reach 9-12 months. Some cats and kittens are lactose intolerance and milk or cream will cause indigestion, nausea, vomitting, and/or diarrhea.

-Catnip: Kittens are usually unaffected by the smell of catnip until at least 6 months of age, but past that age, catnip in toys or sprinkled on the floor is a nice stimulant for your cat or kitten. I prefer Cosmic Cat Nip because it is potent and has a pleasant minty smell. Catnip toys generally need to be refilled or replaced every 2-4 weeks. Kong and Smarty Kat have some great refillable and durable catnip toys in a variety of styles, colors and sizes.

-Kitten Supplements: The right food and diet regiment will keep your cat or kitten at adequate nutritious levels, but if you find that your cat or kitten is having trouble with weight or other health problems, your vet may reccomend a kitten supplement. GNC has some fantastic cat and kitten supplements that are available at local pet stores and online for various reasons. Sprinkling L-Lysine (human formula works as well) on a cat or kittens food will help boost their immune system, and does not have any adverse effects. I used it on my kittens food when they were 3-9 months to prevent upper respiratory infections or other immune responses.

-Dental Supplies: Cats are not as high a risk for gum and dental disease, but there is still a risk! Typically, dental treats are a little less enticing for cats and kittens, but they can still work. Getting a kitten used to having a finger or toothbrush in their mouth is crucial at a young age. Begin by massaging their jaw at the same time each day that you wish you brush, then begin to rub a finger along their teeth, allow them to taste the toothpaste in small amounts, and then introduce the toothbrush. I prefer Nylabone and Arm and Hammer products because they keep my kittens' breath nice a fresh. The water additives, gels, balms, and sprays available for dogs also work for cats and kittens--just be cognisent about the amounts you are using and the size of your tools. A vet's reccomendation would be best when considering these options!

-Home Cleaning (No Mark Spray, No Scratch Spray, Carpet Cleaner, etc.): I say these are optional because you may not need them for a bit after bringing your new kitten home, however you typically need these more for cats and kittens than you would for dogs and puppies, especially Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer and  and No Scratch spray. These are pretty self-explanatory.

If a cat or kitten has an accident outside the box, though, you will need to douse the area with Urine Destroyer to completely rid the area of the urine smell or else the cat or kitten will return to the area time and time again. For them, it's territorial (this can be caused by a changing environment, stress, anxiety, or a new cat being introduced), and they will continue to mark until they can't smell it anymore. Another option is undiluted apple cider vinegar. The vinegar smell (for us) will fade within a few hours, but it will keep a cat from that area for weeks to months.



There are MANY other options available at pet stores, online and at boutiques for our precious furry family members, but these are the necessities from my experience and research. See posts below for other tips, tricks and resources for new pet parents!