New Puppy Checklist

1. Dog Food
2. Puppy Training Treats
3. Crate
4. Toys
5. Leash/Collar & Tags
6. Bowls/Feeding Station
7. Flea & Tick Prevention
8. Grooming Supplies
9. Potty Pick Up Bags/Tool
10. Bed

* Optional *

Dental Supplies, Chews, Home Cleaning Supplies, Potty Pads, Clothes, Puppy Supplements, Training Books/Clickers/Classes

This is a very basic list. See below for more detailed information!

Puppy:

-Dog Food (Pretty obvious, right?): One of the most important decisions facing a pet parent once a new puppy has been brought home is the type of nutrition and the budget for nutrition that they would like  for their new pet. Many don't realize the importance of balanced nutrition and quality ingredients: It can prevent hefty vet bills, keep your dog's coat healthy, prevent excessive shedding/bad breath/pooping, and, most importantly, it keeps your dog happy and healthy for as long as possible. Some of my favorites include Blue Buffalo Life Protection Formulas, Eukanuba, Purina Pro Plan, Nature's Recipe, etc. Make sure you look at the ingredients and think about it like a dinner plate... are those the type of nutrients you would want to be eating? Do they look to be pretty balanced? Feeding requirements based on weight will be on the back, side or bottom of the bag.

Some more considerations are:
First off, make sure you ask what the puppy has been fed. You can change this based on what your needs and wants are, but you will need to buy a small bag of that food if the organization or breeder does not offer one so that you can transition your puppy to a new food without causing stomach upset. This transition takes 10-15 days, and it is 3-4 days with a 75-25% mix of your old food to the new, then bump it up to 50-50% for another 3-4 days and so on.
Is it a small breed or a large breed? Small breeds are typically below 20 lbs and require more calories and nutrients (quicker metabolism) whereas large breeds are typically above 60 lbs and require fewer calories to prevent rapid growth (causes hip and join issues).
Does the dog have any food sensitivities or allergies? Watch out for wheat, soy and corn!
What kind of energy does your dog have? Does it have a hard time putting on weight, or does it tend to overeat? Food regulation can help with the latter, but a high protein diet is an easy way to help meet the high energy needs of your furry friend.
What kind of storage space do you have? Tupperware containers are very good about keeping dry kibble from going stale, but some pet food has to be refrigerated. Do you have the space and time to keep up with your puppy's food requirements based on the option you would like to choose?
How do you feel about wet food? Starting a puppy on wet food can cause a dependency and pickiness, but mixing wet food into kibble can slow down rapid eaters, allow you to give a variety of flavors without having to switch kibbles, and ensure that your puppy is getting enough liquid. I use scoops of wet food as a tasty treat occasionally, but as my dog has gotten older, I've also started introducing it more and more because her teeth are sensitive to crunchy kibbles. One can, depending on the size of the dog and can, can last a couple meals if put into tupper ware and put in the fridge (3-5 days).

My dog loves the Fish and Sweet Potato Life Protection and the Blue Stews and Homestyle Dinners with Blue Buffalo. It keeps her coat nice and shiny, and she has enough energy to wear me out with fetch!

-Puppy Training Treats: Now, these aren't completely necessary, but I highly recommend them for potty training, simple obedience, and to spoil your new puppy. There are quite a few treats on the market designated as training treats (I'm a fan of Zuke's and Blue Buffalo's versions)--they're small (about the size of cat treats), soft and easily breakable, and if you find the right brand, generally wholesome and tasty. The size and softness means that you can assure your puppy gets a special to denote good behavior, but you don't need to worry about portion control or go through bags of treats.

Other good ideas to meet this need are: bits of hot dogs (careful, these can cause stomach upset in large amounts), cheerios, frozen yogurt dots (see The Cookie Jar for a recipe), larger soft treats broken into pieces (jerkeys, slim jim type, and soft nuggets work well), or frozen scoops of canned food (see The Cookie Jar for a tutorial).

It's very easy to go overboard with treats, especially as a puppy, but the training treats are especially important. Biscuits are nice as a before bed snack or on special occasions--the crunch helps to work off a little bit of residue that gets stuck on their teeth (Mother Hubbard's Peanut Butter Bones or Blue Health Bars, for example). If you're worried about breath and gum health, a dental treat would perform better to break down plaque and tartar (Greenies and Blue Buffalo Bones are my favorites), but SHOULD NOT be used until 6 MONTHS of age. Any earlier can cause very bad stomach upset and tooth breakage (they're not designed for the softer puppy teeth). Before six months of age, use a water additive, puppy breath mints or brush your dogs teeth--see the optional section below for tips.

-Crate: A crucial part of house-breaking any puppy is the crate. For a large breed this can be challenging as they start off small and grow to be very large, which can cause you to have to switch crates a couple times before they are full grown. A good way to bypass this is to look for a wire crate that comes with an adjustable divider (Top Paw has a great one for all size breeds!), so that as your puppy grows, your crate can as well. A wire crate with a catch pail in the bottom is also very easy to hose off and clean. The trick to tell if your crate is too big or too small is this: your dog must be able to walk into the crate, turn around and lay down comfortably to be correctly sized. Any bigger and you run the risk of accidents because the dog can use a corner and walk away from it. Any smaller and your dog will be miserable.

Also, as tempting as it is, do NOT leave anything that can be chewed on (beds, squeaky toys, etc.) because your puppy WILL chew it, and if you are not supervising, this can cause choking, ingesting of something that can cause blockage of the intestines, and, unfortunately, some of these cases lead to death. Your puppy will not be too bored in the crate, and while he may whine the first couple times, he will learn.

If you plan to travel by plane or car, the easiest way to accomodate this is through a carrier. By plane, you will need to have a travel-approved plastic carrier, which are carried by all pet stores. There will be a sticker on the carrier's papers to denote it, and you will need a water and food bowl that clips on to the front door or somewhere inside the carrier. These have a handle and will not collapse if something is placed on top of it, and they are also sturdy enough to keep your puppy or dog contained. These do not come adjustable, so you will need to upgrade if you need one as your puppy grows to adulthood.

-Toys: These are another very easy way to go overboard and spend your entire puppy budget! The essentials for the first couple months/year are 2-3 chew toys so that you can freeze and rotate them through the puppy teething phases (Nylabone makes some great chews, but avoid the Flexichews, especially for young ones. I've had good success with the Durachews and Healthy Edibles. Kong's puppy chews are nice as well and allow you to put treats or peanut butter inside), a ball to play fetch if you intend to teach fetch, and 1-2 durable plush toys (without stuffing is nice so it's not all over your living room. Kong and Toyshoppe make some good, durable plush with squeakers). Whichever toys you decide on, though, DO NOT leave your puppy unsupervised with anything that it can chew on... it can spell disaster if a piece happens to break off of a toy and lodge itself in your puppy.

Depending on how much or how strong of a chewer your puppy is, you may find yourself going to the petstore more and more often to pick up toys, however, keeping a puppy busy is essential to keeping him/her away from things you do not want them chewing on. If you do find your puppy chewing on something less desirable, take the object away with a firm "No" and redirect your puppy's attention to a toy. No Chew Spray or any sort of calming product (scent diffuser or treats) can prevent excessive chewing, as well.

-Leash, Collar, & Tags: When walking into a pet store, there is an incredible number of options to give your puppy some bling. However, depending on the breed, one option may be better than another. There are a few questions you need to ask yourself first:

Is my puppy a strong puller? In this case, a Gentle Leader or harness with a front attachment may be the best option. These prevent your puppy from pulling you down the block by making it so that the harder your puppy pulls, the less forward motion it will have. There are also Training collars made of inter-locking chain pieces that tighten as your puppy pulls (these are mere effective for large dogs).
Does my puppy tend to make choking noises when we walk? Sometimes this can be caused by pulling, but a good option could be a harness instead of the traditional collar. These wrap around your puppy's waist and front legs to give you more of a hold and dispersing the pressure of a collar. I prefer these for smaller dogs that can easily slip out of a collar, but they can be difficult to get on or size. The associates at your local pet store should be able to quickly help you fit your puppy.
How long do I want my leash to be? Typical sizes are 4' training leashes and 6' leashes. Training leashes can be very effective with puppies of all sizes because it keeps them close to you and teaches them that it is improper and uncomfortable to try and get away. For pet stores or active dogs, this can be very effective. The 6' can also be useful for small dogs or big dogs as they get trained. It gives them a little bit more space to move. A couple useful tricks for getting your puppy used to a leash is to leave it attached to the collar while the puppy is in the house so that they get used to the weight. To help break pulling, when a dog starts to try and run, immediately stop until the dog calms down then proceed on your walk. Repeat as many times as necessary.
Do I want a retractable leash? Retractable leashes are purely up to your preference. They can give a little bit more distance, are a little bit more expensive, but also are easily stored. For retractable leashes also ensure that the attaching pieces are thick enough so as not to break.

The easiest way to make sure you have a correct fit and option is to bring your puppy in, have them fitted, and test the option out for a bit as you walk through the store.

-Bowls/Feeding Station: Bowls are purely a taste preference from a style standpoint, but a few pointers are: ensure that they are weighted enough so that they cannot be easily tipped or broken, ensure that the size is appropriate based on feeding requirements, look into how high it should be elevated depending on the size of your dog (big dogs with low bowls can have indigestion or back problems later on), and if appropriate, look for a bowl that will allow you some storage for food.

The general rule of thumb for feeding, as well, is twice a day (once in the morning and once in the evening). When potty training this can be particularly useful because a dog generally has to use the restroom 20-30 minutes after eating or drinking and can only hold it the number of hours as the number of months they are old (2 months=2 hours, 3 months=3 hours, etc.).

If you decide on an automatic feeder, though, be sure to watch that your dog is not gaining too much weight. This can cause joint and back issues or lead to digestive problems. Clean, fresh, cool water should be available at all times of the day, except when in the kennel.

-Flea & Tick Prevention (Spring-Fall Months): Fleas and ticks can be unwanted guests in your home and carry nasty diseases to your puppy. While they aren't active in the winter, once it starts to heat up, your puppy is at risk for picking up these parasites, so from Spring-Fall flea and tick prevention is very important. Ask your vet for their recommendation about which medicines you should be using, but K9-Advantix and Frontline offer protection based on weight, and I have had good luck with both.
If you do happen to end up with a tablet flea and tick prevention (most are a liquid that you put at the base of the skull or along the back--make sure your dog doesn't lick it off!), a good way to encourage your puppy to eat it is to hide it in some peanut butter and use a finger to sweep it onto the inside of your puppy's cheek or to use Greenie's Pill Pockets. They are tasty treats that you can use to hide capsules or tablets.

-Grooming Supplies (Brush/Bath Mitt, Nail Clippers, Shampoo, Ear Cleaner, Wipes): Dogs with long coats, such as Pomeranians, Huskies, Akitas, etc. have a tendency to shed a lot and/or blow out their coats in the Spring. This can lead to a home littered with dog fur, which can be unfortunate for anyone that happens into your home with even a mild dog allergy. A great way to negate this problem is to brush your dog's coat out based on grooming guidelines that you can easily find online. It's usually 1-2 a week or every two weeks to prevent tangles in the undercoat and to make sure you're not causing damage to the skin by brushing every day. Some brushes that I particularly like are The Furminator which comes in varying sizes and is like a fur vacuum (but it can get expensive) or The Zoom Groom by Kong which is similar to a curry comb for horses. It's rubberized and acts like a hair magnet, but you can also use it in the bath tub as a bath mitt. Bath mitts are pretty optional, but they can be useful for getting shampoo deep into the coat and rinsing it out if your dog has a thick coat. Another thing that may be necessary for a thick coat is shaving or thinning out every 2-4 months. You can do this yourself, but groomers are generally more efficient and skilled for a relatively low cost.
Getting a dog used to having its nails clipped at a young age is important so that they do not overgrow or become so long that they scratch furniture, floors, or you. A good way to begin this process is to begin by gently massaging your puppys feet at the same time each day and allowing them to sniff the clippers. Nail clippers come in a variety of colors and types, and depending on how brave you are, you may not even need them. Groomers will typically cut your puppy's nails for relatively cheap and they are trained so that they don't hit the quick and cause pain or bleeding, but they do have tools now that will sense the quick as your cutting and prevent you from nicking it. I always cut my dog's nails because she is generally pretty good about it, and you can tell where the quick is by looking closely at the nail (it's darker than the rest). Dogs nails should be clipped once every 2-4 weeks depending on how fast they tend to grow. If you do happen to nick the quick of your puppy's nail, using baking powder or styptic powder will help rapidly stop the bleeding.

Shampoo is nice to always have on hand for a bath in case your puppy rolls in something, gets fleas or is itchy, or just needs a bath to clean mud or debris from his/her coat. Dog shampoo is actually very different from human shampoo, as well, due to the sensitive nature of a dog's coat and skin. I prefer the oatmeal bath (doesn't matter what brand) because whether or not my dog's coat is itchy or not, it is soothing and smells nice. Dogs should be bathed once every 2-3 months (more often if there is a lot of fur) to prevent matting or skin drying. To refresh between baths, they have wipes that can effectively and efficiently remove debris, and deodorant spray to give your dog's fur a pleasent scent.
Ear cleaner is another thing that is dependent on the breed and the puppy. If you find your puppy tends to get ear infections often, has a build up, or just has large ears that frequently get mud or other debris inside, ear cleaner is going to be your best friend. It's very easy to use (although is sometimes an odd feeling for the dog) as you just squeeze it into the ear canal, rub for 60-90 seconds, then allow your puppy to shake the excess out, and mop around the area with cotton balls. Do NOT use Q-tips in your dog's ear as this will only push gunk further into the ear canal. It's generally easier and nicer to do this outside because debris and cleaner will be all over your living room when your puppy shakes. You can clean your puppy's ears every 2-3 days.

Other grooming supplies may be necessary depending on the breed, but these are the extended basics!

-Potty Pick-up Bags: These are crucial if you are going to be walking your dog through the park, and there are a variety of options. I am a fan of the dispensers that attach to my leash (Nature's Miracle or Top Paw), and they come in a variety of shapes and colors. There are also mitts and pooper scoopers that you can purchase for relatively little if you are a tad squeamish about picking up your puppy's waste or your cleaning up your yard.

For urine discoloration in the lawn, try a grain-free diet for you puppy. This will lower the pH of your puppy's urine to prevent brown spots. There are also products you can buy, but I have heard good things about using the grain free option.

-Bed: This isn't entirely necessary either, but can be a good retreat for you puppy when things get stressful, or can be a toy place. You can also train your puppy to stay there until greeted when guests come over. For large dogs with a predisposition for joint problems, though, (think Great Dane, Mastiff, Doberman, etc.) these can be necessary to help prevent sore spots. A cheap option is to sew together pillow cases and fill the insides with down, filling, or foam pillows. It's easily washable, customizable, and you can create an appropriate size.

**Optional**--There are many more options than these mentioned here, but they are purely up to your tastes, budget, and plans for your new companion. A pet store associate or trainer are great ways to learn more about any product you're considering.
-Dental Supplies: Getting your puppy used to having its teeth brushed and being diligent about brushing or using a dental product every 1-3 days is crucial for preventing gum disease and other dental problems that can rack up some expensive vet bills, not to mention the pain your dog will be in. Nylabone and Arm & Hammerhave both come out with multiple options to address this need. My favorite is a combination of dental treats from Blue Buffalo, water additive (teaspoon per 8-32 oz of water), and using a finger brush and enzyme tooth brush to get off what plaque that is left. There are also sprays, foams, balms, and breath mints, and I have heard good things about each, but it depends on what your puppy will allow and what you are willing to do.
A good way to acclimate your puppy to allowing its teeth to be messed with is to begin massaging his/her jaw at the same time each day (the time you wish to brush), rubbing your finger along his/her teeth, allowing them to taste the toothpaste in very small amounts, and gradually working your way to a finger brush or tooth brush.

-Chews (Rawhides, Busy Bones, etc.): For puppies that still have their baby teeth, these should NOT be used. They will cause gum bleeding and tooth damage, but after 9 months-12 months, your puppy should have their adult teeth in and be able to chew on rawhides or other chews. These can be effective to calm a dog's nerves while in the car, keep them busy and entertained, or as a treat, however you should NEVER leave your dog alone with a chew as pieces can easily splinter off and be ingested, causing harm or choking. I like Purina's Busy Bones and Pedigrees Dentistix because they tend to last my Jack Russel a while, come in varying sizes, and are appealing because they have meaty stuff or peanut butter in the middle. What kinds of chews to buy or if your dog is a fan of rawhides will quickly become apparent based on trial and error.

-Home Cleaning (Carpet Cleaner, No Chew Spray, etc.): I say these are optional because you may not need them right away or your may never need them, but home cleaning supplies to prevent stains, damage, or smells (especially those by Nature's Miracle) can become your best friend. Their Urine Destroyer line is very effective on both cat and dog wastes, and their chew/marking sprays are very effective and don't stain. Bissell, Febreeze, and Woolite also have great pet products available.

-Potty Pads/Doggy Diapers: I really am not a fan of potty pads because they seem to reinforce the idea that going to the bathroom inside the house is okay, but for puppies that will be in the crate or kennel for a long time while you are away or who will be cooped up at night, they can be useful so that you don't need to clean out the kennel or area each morning. The diapers are good for older dogs or dogs that are in heat to prevent inconstinence problems or messes. A trainer at a local pet store would have a better idea about what would be the most effective way to address these problems.

-Clothes: Really don't need an explanation. Just be sure that the outfits you choose do not have pieces that could be chewed off or restraining neck holes... either one could be disastrous.

-Puppy Supplements: GNC has a great line of nutritional supplements and supplements to prevent grass staining, joint and hip problems, low caloric intake, etc. I haven't had the need to use any as of yet, but their puppy multivitamins are a very nice add-on to a well-balanced diet. Ask your vet for recommendations based on your puppy's unique breed and needs.

-Training Books/Clickers/Classes: A well-behaved dog will make you and he/she very happy throughout its life because you typically will not have to worry about temperment or behavioral issues. The trainers at PetSmart are very good about addressing all of your training needs, their classes are guaranteed, they are always around and happy to answer questions even if you aren't in a class, the classes are great for puppy socialization, and they will help you develop a training program that spans beyond the 6 week class program. Whether you want your puppy to have an amazing trick repetoire, be able and willing to listen to every command, or you just want to know how to interact with your new furry companion, I highly recommend looking into the training options available to you in your area.